Lenin Avenue

 Luanda's population of approximately 5 million people makes this a bustling city. The skyline full of building cranes and new buildings showcase the ushering in of the ultra modern. However, one of my favorite streets, Lenin Avenue, is an oasis in the middle of the urban chaos:

I almost feel like I could be in Key West, Florida...

Notice the blue and white tile decorations. This is something I have seen in Lisbon, Portugal. I would love to see the inside of one of these homes! Poseidon rules this house:

A very pleasant street to walk on. Just ahead, on a parallel street, an apartment building many of which are found all over the city:

Time to head back down toward the bay and back to the bustle; broken sidewalks and rubble relieved by pleasant walk ways:

Near the waterfront, many modern buildings stand and several others are under construction:

I hope Luanda keeps some of its historical flavor by maintaining and restoring it's past.

Traffic Blues

The other day, as I headed back to Luanda, after taking the kids to school and looking at this view, the following quote, which I have heard from several sources at different times, popped into my head:

"WE ARE THE SUM TOTAL OF OUR CHOICES"

Did I really choose to live in this city where I can sit in a car 3 hours just to deliver my kids to school? Apparently, I did. Not every day is this bad, but one accident can turn the whole city into a mess. 

The school is approximately 20 km out of town, but the good thing is that the route goes against traffic. The kids usually spend 45 minutes in the car which is not all that bad. The problem is getting back into the city after drop off.

The oil companies, the major employers of expats, have split their headquarters between the city and the area where the school is located. For families that live near the school, but the parent/parents work in town, it means leaving between 5:00 -5:30 in the morning. Leaving later than that means the ride into town to may take up to two hours! Many parents are in bed by 09:00 pm and up by 04:00 am.

The main roads in Luanda are actually very good. However, smaller roads even within the city can be full of holes, usually from burst water pipes or poor maintenance. Some major intersections have non-functioning traffic lights or none, which allows drivers complete creativity as to how they cross the intersection. The only rule here is:  Me first!

Impossible to know how deep this is

Down town

The highway leading south is a highway in excellent shape. The biggest danger is people crossing the road or sudden, unexpected moves by other drivers.

Taxi drivers in Luanda are notorious for being the worst drivers. The taxis are smaller minivans (Blue and white) and can stop almost anywhere to pick up passengers. They weave in and out of traffic and most do not like to wait their turns, so pile-ups are common at pick up points.

Motorcycles are also crazy; driving on the opposite side of the road, head-on in order to avoid lines and weave in and out. 

Having said all that, I find driving in Luanda less stressful than in our last post where I could come home completely frazzled! Here it is more a frustration of the time that goes into sitting in the car.

Lesson learned: ALWAYS take something to read no matter how short the distance. You never know how long it may take!

A Sea of Containers

Many of you know that our container was damaged  on the cargo ship from Sri Lanka to Angola when a fire  broke out. As the fire broke out, steel dividers closed off hold areas. Then,  sprinklers containing chemical-infused water to extinguish the fire were set off. The combination of smoke, flames, heat and chemical water ruined the content. I had never noticed before, but the steel containers have vents on the bottom sides in order for air to circulate during the journey, which probably allowed flames to incinerate all the cardboard boxes.

 The cargo company said that they had never experienced this before, that it is more common for the containers to FALL OFF the cargo ships during storms.

This is verified by a visiting Swedish diplomat who told me that his container fell of the cargo ship on its way to Mozambique. He received a short letter from the cargo company :

"We regret to inform you that your container fell off the ship during a storm. Please take immediate contact with your insurance company." 

The diplomat maintains that the cargo companies stack on the containers, as many as possible, to increase their profits. If the cargo ship is unlucky enough to meet severe weather, it is highly possible that those containers stacked over a certain height, can fall off the ship. Since all containers are independently insured, the cargo company loses nothing and our oceans are increasingly lined with steel containers!

Please read: NPR: Shipping containers on sea floor

Luanda Port

The Beach

We finally get to experience a beach. About 70 km from Luanda, headed south, we turn off at a tiny sign for our destination. Necessary equipment: 4 wheel drive and everything else you may need. Tourism is not yet developed in Angola and the coastline is pristine.

Africa's signature red earth

No one else except fishing boats on the horizon

When I say you need everything, I mean everything: food, drinks, shade, chairs (we made do with a sheet) and your portable bathroom kit (thanks, Julie!).

The kit is smart, I never thought of a shovel before!

The beach is part of a nature reserve where sea turtles come to lay their eggs. It is still early in the season, though. The children go in with wetsuits, our son, the viking, does not! Excellent waves. I will wait for warmer water. 

My daughter's treasures

On the way home, a stop by the side of the road for dinner:

The fish is like a long flounder with both eyes on the top. Somebody says it is like "sole". The bigger fish turns out mushy, don't know if it is lack of culinary skill or not enough baking. The smaller one is much tastier. 

My house helper says it's called "Lenguado"

All in all, an excellent day with new friends!

IMPORTED

It seems like almost all goods are imported to Angola mainly from Portugal and South Africa. That is according to me and my visits to the grocery store.

According to the CIA World Fact Book (see https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/ao.html) :


Angola's high growth rate in recent years was driven by high international prices for its oil. Angola became a member of OPEC in late 2006 and its current assigned a production quota of 1.65 million barrels a day (bbl/day). Oil production and its supporting activities contribute about 85% of GDP. Diamond exports contribute an additional 5%. Subsistence agriculture provides the main livelihood for most of the people, but half of the country's food is still imported.



Another import, which I find fascinating, are Mexican soap operas. Yes, according to my very informal and non-scientific survey, Mexican soap operas are considered to be the very best ones by many Angolans. The rights are purchased in Brazil where they are dubbed to Portuguese and bought by Angolan tv.


Three channels show soap operas every day and one, shows them continuously. Overdosing on Mexican soaps in Angola is possible.

My husband and I met for lunch at a neighborhood restaurant the other day and we could hardly get service since the large screen tv showing some soap (I recgognized Mexico City!) had the waiters open-mouthed and mesmerized.

Now playing: 

"Teresa" from 2010 starting Angelique Boyer

"Cuidado Con Don Anjo" original title: "Cuidado Con El Ángel" from 2008

Check out ZAPnovelas Facebook page: ZAP Novelas


If I do decide to hunker down and watch, I can make a delicious guacamole to go with. The avocadoes, tomatoes, cilantro and limes are plentifull and gorgeous. Black beans are also to be had, but I am still looking for tortillas... Viva México em Angola!

      

                                   

Taking the Plunge

Since I am not ready to accept my grey hair, it is time to visit a hair salon. It's been three months since my last coloring and since I can't fly to Florida and make an appointment with Marlene and the coloring kits at the grocery are dusty, old and limited, one of the scariest moments as an expat has arrived: trusting a local salon.

After getting some advice and investigating at three of the major international hotels in town, only one has the color I need. The stylist looks like she is a "stylist" and knows what she is doing. The drawback is the distance from the house and the price.

During my walk today, I took another way home and just down from us, not even two blocks away, I found this:

It is the kind of place that you want to be good. It's so close to the apartment and unpretentious. The receptionist leads me to the what looks like the head stylist in the back. The place is much bigger inside and looks nice (yay!). The stylist speaks incredibly fast Portuguese and we have a good laugh while I explain what I want in my half Spanish, 1/4 Portuguese and 1/4 nonsense. I have the recipe for color I got from Marlene, but he shoos that aside.The lady he is styling gets involved as well and pretty soon everyone in there is laughing. This is what I am really liking about Angola: the people! It's that warm, latin feel that I love.

The stylist says " Why are you worried about greys? You are young and beautiful, let the greys come!" What is not to love about this man? I decide to take the plunge.

That afternoon I return to find the salon much more quiet, the stylist is off in the corner with paperwork and realize that it is the young man that showed me the price list that will be taking care of me. Suddenly, I am feeling apprehensive. I can't back out now and my mantra "it will grow out" starts to automatically play in my head.

Two hours later, hair colored and conditioned and styled, I am relieved. The young man did a good job!

When I go to pay, my VISA is rejected. This is not the first time this happens. I assure them I have money and by now, since it is dark, my stylist, tall and imposing, follows me to a minbank where I take out money without a problem. The corner is filled with men hanging around and I know I will never take money out alone, in the dark. I am actually walked home! Needless to say, he gets a tip which I think he is very happy with.

All in all, my first salon visit gets a good, solid B. For now, I have found my salon in Luanda!

City Delights

I love discovering little shops and stores in a new place. We received information from colleagues, websites and a guidebook, but finding and selecting the ones I know will be part of our new life is fun. Also, as they become part of a weekly routine, they help anchor us to our new town.

I would have never found this little jewel on my own even if I rode by many times. The simple sign, "Siccal", over an iron gate, does not give away much.

One peek into the spartan interior made me think,"Is that it?" Let me assure you, although this may not look like much, the bread in this little bakery is absolutely delicious. My son and I were lucky enough to find the rolls on the bottom left just out of the oven: light and warm with a perfect crust.

     

The simple list of prices and the tiled ordering counter just adds to the charm. One thing that is not listed is ready-made pizza dough. I asked for two and they were delivered in a plastic bag individually dusted with flour. Pizza that night was delicious!

The Portuguese influence in baking is carried on and perfected in this shop. However, good bread is easy to find all over the city: light crusty loaves, ready-sliced and whole wheat selections as well.

This is already one of my favorite stores: Albuquerque. When you enter, you feel like you have stepped back in time. However, the store is stacked from floor to high ceiling with ultra modern kitchen utensils, brightly colored plastic trash cans, buckets, candles and much more.  It also has a sewing section in the back with a selection of materials and notions manned with excellent help.

Like in other places we have lived, I have learned that if I see something I need or use frequently, I buy it. Stock runs out and may not be replaced.

Now that I have found this coffee shop at a walking distance, my double esspresso fix is a done deal!

Feeling more comfortable about walking around. Generally, people are very helpful and smile easily. However, I take off all my jewelry, my watch, tuck my phone inside my pants and take just enough money for a coffee in my pocket. I sniff out the good stores and then if there is something I want to buy, I return by car. Luanda is safer than most African cities, but crime is something to always be aware of.

Making do

Anyone that has relocated to a new country knows that the first weeks can be really tough. This time around, our housing was already waiting for us, which can be wonderful or terrible depending on what you think of the place. Our apartment is modern with an excellent kitchen: gas stove, microwave, dishwasher and a super effective hot air circulating oven!

It is located in a nicer area of the city and we all had to get used to city lights and sounds.  Two small balconies and great views. We like!

While we wait for our "things" to arrive, we have a starter kit with dishes, glasses, cutlery, pots and pans. Very grateful to my husband's colleagues for arranging all of this for us. However, it is amazing how little we actually need to produce meals:

I am soo glad I had the good sense to pack these! I actually developed quite a good technique for scraping carrots and potatoes, but thanks to my husband's colleague, whom has lent us this one:

Life just got so much easier. Lesson learned: never count on your things arriving before you do, even with the best of planning, be prepared!

Now, after 4 weeks, we are promised that we can pick up our car within the next couple of days. THAT process has gone pretty well compared to other people that have waited several months for their vehicles to clear the port and get license plates. Our cleared the port and got plates efficiently, now only detailing at the dealership is left. Can't wait to start exploring...

Bem-vindo! or Welcome!

In this blog I will be sharing my experiences in Angola. As a newcomer planning to live here for the next 2-3 years, I have much to learn and discover. I want to meet "real" people, shop in local shops, eat traditional food and hopefully make some Angolan friends.

Living as an expatriate, it is easy to stay within a comfort bubble surrounded by other expats. While this will be part of my reality, I am hoping to see and experience some of the "real" Angola.

Africa evokes so many different images and many misconceptions, I myself was very excited and anxious as to how I would find Luanda, the capital.

This is a view from our 5th. floor, modern apartment. We are the highest building in the surrounding blocks, but there are much higher buildings than ours not too far away, closer to the ocean. New construction projects are all over town and cranes are everywhere.

We can see the American Embassy across the haze that seems to be blanketing the city. The haze will slowly disappear in the coming weeks as the rainy season arrives.

So, how to post pictures from a city where a camera is suspicious? Our travel guide warns from taking pictures of public buildings and to expect the police to question us if we do... These are from the car as we drive:

A city of contrasts to be sure! I am still in that phase of excitement and wonder. Every day life will soon begin and I wonder how my family will fare here?